The vast majority of textiles use synthetic pigments and dyes from fossil bases, which have a significant impact on human health and the environment.

According to the U.S. National Environment Program and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, fabric dyeing and treatment causes about 20 percent of wastewater worldwide. In Europe, textile consumption has the fourth highest impact on the environment and climate change. According to the European Environment Agency, it has the third highest impact on water and land use, and the fifth highest impact on raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions.

The development of safer and more innovative dyes through microbial fermentation through synthetic biology methods may replace the fossil-based product market.

Synthetic bioionin and its derivatives are used as bio-based dyes

Ginkgo Bioworks today announced that it has partnered with Octarine Bio, a Denmark-based synthetic biology company that specializes in new sustainable biobased ingredients, to develop natural pigments for use as bio-based dyes.

This is a multi-stage cooperation plan. The focus is on improving the bio-based production process of the tryptophan project, with the aim of designing a strain to produce ionin and its derivatives. It is a naturally occurring bisindole pigment with powerful biological activities, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and UV protection properties.

While initially focused on ionin, the collaboration has the potential to expand to other tryptophan-derived compounds, each with their own unique applications.

Founded in 2018, Octarine Bio is a Danish synthetic biology company that is building a pipeline of high-potency cannabinoids and psilocybin derivatives for the pharmaceutical industry. Octarine Bio was founded by Nethaji Gallage (CEO) and Nick Milne (CSO) on the premise of basic research at the University of Copenhagen and the Technical University of Denmark (DTU).

Octarine Bio's expertise in precision fermentation and enzyme engineering can improve the production level and performance of these dyes, which is the key technology. In partnership with Ginkgo Bioworks, Octarine will quickly bring new bioactive pigments and dyes to market to meet consumer demand for safer, healthier and more sustainable alternatives.

Microbial manufacturing dye market

These natural pigments have great potential for use as bio-based dyes, which are one of the fastest growing categories in the global textile market.

Dyes made from microorganisms appear to be the new choice and market. Synthetic biology companies like Huue, Colorifix, Tinctorium, PILI, and others are also experimenting with bio-based dyes and are favored by capital. It is feasible to use modified microbial enzymes to convert renewable resources (straw, oil, molasses) into dyes for textile production.

The dyeing process in the fashion industry is energy and water intensive, PILI co-founder and scientific director Guillaume Boissonnat has said publicly. The production of 1 ton of dye requires the use of nearly 1,000 cubic meters of water, 100 tons of heavy petroleum compounds, 10 tons of toxic and corrosive chemicals, and at least 100 megajoules of energy.

In response, Huue said that the production of one kilogram of standard indigo dye traditionally requires 100 kilograms of oil, and Huue's process of making dye eliminates the need for petroleum feedstock and eliminates the use of chemicals such as formaldehyde. It is worth mentioning that Huue's bio-based dye (indigo) can be matched to the production process of today's printing and dyeing plants, without changing the production method.

In terms of price, although bio-based dyes cost more than traditional pigments, it is not uncommon for consumers to pay for green premium products in the consumer world.

The following is a brief introduction to two bio-based dye companies

1. PILI.Bio

Founded in 2015 and headquartered in Paris, France, PILI's main technology is to use modified microbial enzymes to convert renewable resources (straw, oil, molasses) into dyes for textile production, which can help textile, plastics, paints and inks and other industries that need to dye to wean themselves off oil and harmful chemicals.

Since its inception, the company has completed five rounds of financing totaling more than 10 million euros. The latest funding round of €4 million was completed in March 2021, which plans to expand the production of bio-based pigments and test them in industrial ink and paint formulations. The round was funded by PILI's historical investors SSV, ELaia and others.

In 2012, Adenis and synthetic biologist Thomas Landrain began experimenting with microbial dye production, conducting small-scale tests and roadshows to the public at art sites such as the Paris Opera.

In 2015, Adenis thought it could take the project to the corporate and industrial level, and PILI was born.

The EPA has long monitored certain wastes from the dye and pigment industry, classifying some of them as hazardous based on specific thresholds. Dyes using azo, triarylmethane and anthraquinone dyes are extremely toxic. In countries without water treatment technology, water-soluble dyes are easy to seep out of clothes and pollute water sources.

PILI removes chemicals used in traditional industries for dyes, such as formaldehyde and heavy metals. The company synthesizes enzymes for specific functions by gene-editing microbes that convert carbon sources into designated dyes or pigment molecules in bioreactors, which are then extracted and purified to produce commercial dye products.

"Products made using our biodyes can dramatically reduce the environmental impact of textile chemistry by reducing water and energy use, as well as eliminating toxic chemicals and fossil resources currently used in the production of color," said Jeremie Blache, CEO.

2. Lexiang Sustainable Technology

As a clothing company started from children's shoes, Le Xiang's transformation came from an "accidental" experience: "In 2014, the country issued the world's most stringent implementation standards for infant products, so we began to look for qualified fabrics." However, in the process, we found that the way to solve formaldehyde pollution on the market is to cover formaldehyde with formaldehyde treatment agent, but this way is only a temporary solution, not a permanent cure. In our follow-up efforts, we found that the formaldehyde pollution of fabrics mainly came from the chemical dyes in the dyeing process that needed to be fixed with formaldehyde. So we thought we could solve this problem with natural dyes."

However, after officially entering the line, it was found that "natural dyes have many problems, the reason why it can not be commercially applied, fading is a very deadly reason." In addition, natural dyes have disadvantages such as not being bright enough." Faced with the gap between ideas and reality, Le Xiang did not choose to return to the "comfort zone", but gained a stronger conviction - to close the original company and concentrate on doing a new career.

Lexiang "to promote the sustainable use of natural resources and a good ecological environment for the purpose of the development of green economy, the pursuit of sustainable development of the company", relying on independent research and development of ecological dyes as the core, the development of a full set of green printing and dyeing technology, zero COD generation, zero VOCs emissions, solid waste conversion carbon storage, the whole process to achieve closed-loop cycle production mode. The green dye project developed by Lexiang can provide a circular and sustainable development model for the textile printing and dyeing industry. Lexiang mainly reduces energy consumption, protects the environment and achieves sustainable development by opening up the green technology of the whole industrial chain. Relying on independent research and development of green ecological dyes as the core, to create a green circular ecological industrial chain, from raw material procurement to ecological dye manufacturing to printing and dyeing and waste treatment, Lexiang has developed a complete set of green industrial chain cycle mode, to achieve 100% recycling of production wastewater - after treatment can be turned into a Class 1 drinking water. After printing and dyeing solid waste into treasure - organic fertilizer, no COD production, no VOC emissions, reduce carbon emissions, to solve the current global concern about the printing and dyeing industry environmental pollution problems.

Article source: Deep Science and Technology, Financial information, Bio-based energy and materials